A night in sub-zero at Rohtang Pass

Todays news report that  “hundreds ” of people  (five HRTC buses , 30 civilian vehicles and an army convoy) were forced to spend the night in subzero temperatures , waiting for the road to be cleared from yesterdays snow fall. Two feet of snow put a stop to the traffic on both sides of the pass.

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The task of foreign tourists, especially those from England, who come here in search of the graves and memorabilia of their forefathers who died here during the British rule, can become easier as the Tourism Department will be soon coming out with a compilation of details of all churches and cemeteries in the state.

In fact, details of all churches and cemeteries in the state have been compiled and will soon be made public the form of a publication.

Most of these cemeteries are not well kept. At some places, graves are in such a bad shape that it becomes very difficult to figure out as to who lay buried there.

“Having a proper compilation of cemeteries and churches will be of great help to foreign tourists who wish to visit places of historical importance, especially from the point of view of the British rule,” said a senior official.

Eminent writer Raja Bhasin has undertaken the arduous task of documenting the churches and cemeteries and compiling the information as a book. Information has been taken from earlier records collected by the British Association of Cemeteries in South Asia and other Churches. Information has also been taken from Abid Ali Gill, a senior librarian at the Qiad-i-Azam Library in Lahore.

The book will have details of the year in which a church was built, date of its consecration and when the first divine service was held there.

Similarly, the information about cemeteries will have details about the year it was opened, date when the first grave was laid, how many graves it has and the date till it was in use.

The account of cemeteries will make specific mention of the graves of prominent people, who were laid to rest there. Besides coming out with the book on the churches and cemeteries in Himachal, the Tourism Department also plans to take steps to ensure better care and maintenance of these cemeteries, especially those not in use.

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History : being close to China border,Indian Govt. opened this area for tourist in early nintees.Still foreigners have to take permission to visit certain area . Sangla is considered one of the beautiful valley of Indian Himalayas and is very picturesque.Situated on Indo-Tibetan road which is just modernization of old silk route to China.

PHASE1 : Drive to Recong Peo

One has to take bus early in morning from Shimla.It is almost 10-12 hrs. journey and all depends upon weather and road conditions as usually there are landslides and roads are blocked.If one is having own vehicle still early morning drive is preferred as scented air and absence of traffic make it easy to reach Rampur Busheher.For people who are new to Himachal Pradesh. Shimla is very well connected by roads and rail. One can reach chandigarh by air also.trains are also available from Chandigarh-Shimla. Shimla used to be summer capital of colonial India and British developed it according to their taste and standard of living.Drive from Shimla is very scenic …actually this all drive upto Sangla and Chitkul is very scenic but dangerous also. 6 ft of road has somne very tricky turns which needs very alert and experienced hands on steering. A small confusion and err in judgment can lead to disastrous end.As it is sheer drop in river Satluj…..

PHASE2: Reaching Recong Peo

is somewhat tiring job. One has to search for hotel of choice.So have cool air and search for one according to your taste…otherwise Govt. rest houses can be tried. It is good to spend a night at Recong Peo. It is first hand feeling ofpeople and their strong cultural ties. Start early and ask for Raksham. It is way back to Shimla road and a clear diversion will take you alongside the river.The road gets altitude..and comes Karsham…and from here drive becomes very difficult with steep cuts and dangerous turns…it needs cool mind to drive in this area. Here comes Sangla. It is now very developed town. With STD/ISD facilities…chinese/Tibetan food and range of hotels.Stay for a night here.There are small,one day excretions from Sangla. try to have a visit or prefer to stay at BANJARA CAMPS.It is justified for every pocket.It is much better and advised to stay there,instead of staying in Sangla.

PHASE3 : Ask anyone about Banjara Camps & If you are good walker…try going to Chitkul..on foot but better take your sleeping bags as sometimes one prefers to stay there. Better to take metelled road for this purpose.The main purpose is to get maximum view of valley and have better photography. Onway,one can also witness rural life of tribal Kinnaur. Chitkul is highest village connected with road and boasts of regular bus service from Shimla and Recong Peo. IMPORTANCE Of Chitkul is that childless couples from far off places(Even Europe) visits here…at Chitkul Mandir to get blessing for child.
One can stay in Forest rest house but usually it is heavily booked.But there are sufficient guest houses available now…so staying there is no problem…otherwise turn back …there are buses and jeeps available now.
NOTE: This region had developed very fast and now you can stay at CHITKUL in moderate guest houses and there is ONE MORE camping place in between SANGLA and CHITKUl which is MUCH BETTER option that expensive BANJARA CAMPS.

MY FIRST SOLO TREK: The urge for adventure and unavailability of companion,forced me to adopt solo trekking in Himalayas which is not still in trend here in India By going through lot of maps ,I decided to start from low altitude trekking. I was having one two men dome tent,a rucksack and sleeping bag. A kerosene oil stove was presented by my mother,which I am still using.And one day in mid-April of 1994,I was out for my self placed challenge.Tatapani means “hot water” and when I reached there with a pounding heart,it was nearly 4.0 PM and my eyes were searching for a better place to pitch tent.although I was not new to the trekking world but SOLO is something which can not be expressed in words.You feel fear,challenge,happiness and sorrow all alone.No doubt the percentage of danger and exposure to accidents increases in SOLO trekking.I was directed to tourist rest house.But I choose river bank for pitching tent.After coffee I decided to talk to someone about my intended trek and through a cigarette shop,I came to know that the is LEOPARD area and many incidents of encounter with humans had been reported.This was enough to give me “oooops” and I remember that I prepared a early dinner and could not slept until 11.30 as sound of wind coming through high grass was enough to create a raging heart beat.But there was no other alternative left.I had put myself into a situation and now I was facing it.

DAY1 Next day,I started early .Trek was parallel as it was jeepable.But after crossing CHABA, an hydroelectric plant I decided to have some breakfast…I descended to the river bank.My tent and sleeping bag was all wet so I dried them in sun ,cooked some noodles and started for my unknown destination.I met students going to school and they all were shocked to see me.Later on I came to know that very rarely some “other” person visit that area.I was carrying too much load..could be around 35-40 kgs,with spare shoes,5 Ltrs. of kerosene,ration,cloths etc. etc. But gradient was not much so I managed to walk good length.It was coming to be 1.0PM when I decided to take some rest.Again I descended to river bank and had a bath in ice chilled water.Ultimately it gave great relief to my aching muscles.I started after and Hrs. stay but there was some rocky patches which consumes good time.Sometimes I have to hold on some rock to support myself..it was sheer drop and I was hesitant in begining…but managed to cross those tricky things.The very memory of “kissing” the rock gave me thrill ,even today.Evening was running in and I have to decided where to pitch tent.I was told by someone that There was a village “Harluti” and it was almost 5.0PM when I entered the village.Tired and hungry,I asked to a farmer for permission to pitch tent.He invited me to stay with them but I wanted to be alone so I requested to be “there”.In evening he along with his young daughter and son visited my tent and I had a long conversation with them. The girl used to walk almost10 KMs. for school and after completing school,she was interested in further study but a helpless parent was worried how to support her financially. I felt bad but could not do anything else except appreciating the attitude of both father-daughter.I cooked some rice and slept….no dreams!!

* Do not touch people, some rocks & stones in this village. They are sacred and heavy fine from village head have to be paid instantly.

BACKGROUND: Situated in Kullu Distt. of Himachal Pradesh. Malana is famous for its unique history. Tribal people here find their roots with Alexandria. It is widely believed that people of Malana are direct descendant of Greeks,which visited India during one of their campaigns under Alexander the Great. The very features, language, religion and socioeconomic structure resembles with ancient Greek civilization. This is quite true that they manage their own judicial, social and religious lives- which is unique in its own way-and that’s major attraction for people to visit and witness a life style where certain stones are also sacred and in case someone touches them-have to be heavily fined. Malana is unique village where a tourist is told very clearly about his limits and its penelty.One can not touch certain stones and neither touching the residents is accepted.Accidents do happen and they draw very heavy penalty from trekkers/tourists. Although Indian Govt. knew very well about activities and drug culture going on,but strangely there have been no steps taken till date. Hence Malana is still considered one of the great mines of “high quality ” of Charas.And many locals have become millionaires within couple of years.

PHASE1 One can reach Bhuntar by air also,otherwise it is well connected by road and heavy traffic of buses and taxis is there to accommodate every one.Bhuntar is situated on Kullu-Manali highway.From Bhuntar one has to turn for Manikaran which is a religious place for Sikhs. Kasol is just on way to Manikaran,just a 45 min. drive from Bhuntar.One can smell the very air filled with western music and small eating joints serving different different dishes.I have seen many “Hippies” spending good time here,before starting climbing for Rashol.

PHASE2 Trek is very easy in first leg and well defined.One encounters many people from different countries ,enroute.So ,no confusion.Rashol is bit higher and last leg of the day may leave you bit tired.There are now well equipped eating joints which are also offering night stays,for very nominal prices.

PHASE3 Start early and within three Hrs., Malana shows its beautiful fields. Now they do not cultivate “smoking stuff” this side of the trek (Media attention) There is INSTRUCTION BOARD Rt. at enterence…study it very carefully. No police is going to come for your help in any case.They make and rule their own laws.This is Malana. Inquire before photography..there are certain stones/rocks/temples which are not allowed to be photographed.You can eat at many eating joints and boarding is also provided by them.Have a nice time.

NOTE: Our personal experience is that this region is not safe for solo trekkers and please do not go alone.

Coastal trekking is not as popular in India as it should be. Not very takers for walking along with the huge coastal line India offers. No one has explored much in this erena except trekking in Goa which is reduced to walking from one beach to another but a serious route has yet to be established.

I suggest to hardcore trekkers to explore this scenic land starting from North Goa to South Goa. North Goa does not have plam trees and most of the time you will be walking under Sun- so start early if you do not like a Sun tanned skin.

Same situation is in Kerala - not much takers for coastal trekking which could have been a boon for looking deep into village lives of people living at coast.

AUSTRALIAN ASSAULTED IN TRAIN -JODHPUR

One more girl from Australia had been sexualy assaulted in running train. This time it was a man from Indian army. Although police has arrested this man and tourist has booked herself in some hotel in JODHPUR.

This is what Indian media is beaming right now on TV. What is happening here ? Indian govt. has to fine some solution but what possible solution one can find…at all. Every tourist coming to India do not afford to hire any agency or have tour escort.

Tapan Pandit, a teacher from kolkatta has discovered a new route of only 58kms by trek between KEDARNATH and BADRINATH. Old route was 186 kms and was not easy where new route is short and goes through moraine, bushes but can be enjoyed by trekkers.

Caution is required from wild animals, reptiles and mountain hazards.

A myth that in old times, a single pandit used to perform rituals in both temples gave him clue to find possibility of a route which he finds ultimately.

Tapan Pandit - a experienced trekker spend lot of time in reseach on google earth. Thanks to google earth which provides him a topographical view of this route and rest required was dedication and belief in himsel.

His students helps him in this crusade. A humble soul- trekked al this length with his students and wife USHA PANDIT.

Couple along with a student managed this tough trek without much difficulty through NEELKANTH region.

ROUTE: Kedarnath - Chopta- Mana-Badrinath

The dead have been identified as Bhaskar Banerjee, 53, Amal Dhara, 35, and Vishwanath, 37, all residents of Howrah in West Bengal.

Three trekkers, who went missing in Lahaul Spiti, of Himachal Pradesh last week have been found dead on a Himalayan glacier, police sources today said. An eight-member team began trekking from Kibber village in Spiti valley to Leh Ladakh last week when they faced bad weather. The sources said while five members managed to reach Leh safely, three others went missing, following which a search was launched for them.

An aerial survey later helped in finding the bodies of the three missing trekkers near Parangla Pass at about 19,000 feet and it took the rescue team five days to retrieve them.